A groundbreaking review by leading dermatology experts Dr. W Westerhof and T. Kooyers reveals a concerning link between a previously banned ingredient in skin lightening creams and cancer. This ingredient, hydroquinone, was initially prohibited in cosmetics in January 2001 due to its detrimental effects on the skin.
The new research highlights potentially severe long-term health risks, raising concerns about the continued presence of hydroquinone in the UK market. Despite the ban, hydroquinone persists through two primary channels.
Firstly, substantial quantities of hydroquinone-based creams are still being imported from countries where the ban is not yet in effect, fueling a significant black market trade within the UK.
Secondly, and perhaps more alarmingly, companies can legally sell products containing arbutin and bearberry. Arbutin, a glycoside of hydroquinone, and bearberry, a natural source of arbutin, release hydroquinone upon skin contact, exposing consumers to the chemical indirectly.
Hydroquinone has been used for decades to lighten skin and treat hyperpigmentation resulting from acne, liver spots, burns, and post-pregnancy melasma. However, Dr. Westerhof’s review documents its potential to cause blood cancers, such as leukemia, and kidney damage, as demonstrated in animal studies. Rapidly absorbed into the bloodstream upon skin application, hydroquinone is slowly excreted by the kidneys, suggesting a tendency to accumulate within the body. The breakdown of hydroquinone in bone marrow is believed to be the origin of potential long-term damage.
Theo Kooyers emphasizes the urgent need to raise awareness about the hidden presence of hydroquinone and its severe, long-term side effects. While the EEC deliberates on substitute sources of hydroquinone, the message remains clear: safer alternatives are available.
Following the ban on hydroquinone, General Topics, a prominent dermacosmetic research company led by Dr. Gianfranco de Paoli Ambrosi, developed Thiospot. Thiospot utilizes natural ingredients to gradually reduce excess pigment production, leading to a safe and effective skin lightening process without the risks associated with hydroquinone.